To Have and Have Not

Here are some of the things I've learned so far in Vilnius: no elevators and no airconditioning, even if you really need them. Coffee: small cups, no refills, milk/cream costs extra and the waitperson is puzzled and suspicious at this request.

People walk around all day and all evening, except when they are sitting at outdoor cafes with a beer and beetroot soup (like borscht, but with a Lithuanian twist), or the (lead) zeppellin. After only three days, we are seeing familiar faces two or more times each day, like a tape loop.

The history of  Vilnius is fluid; it changes from the perspective of the heritage of five major ethnic groups. People of German descent have one history, Poles have another, Russians tell another tale, and those who claim actual Lithuanian ancestry have a completely different historical memory. Only the Jews have a documented past that can't be questioned, and that's because 95% were wiped out during WW11- a higher percentage than anywhere else in Europe.

The control of this city has changed hands so many times in the past that only now has a Vilnius  identity begun to emerge. It's a brand new city with brand new freedom. And how vibrant and fun it is to be here at this time. I could get used to this life!